Wherever possible, the numbers have been taken from fractional gear ratios and only rounded to three decimal places after the last calculation to preserve their accuracy. Included also are methods of calculating vehicle speed at a particular engine speed and tire spec.
The overall gear ratio number signifies the number of engine revolutions per wheel revolution -- for example would be twelve engine revolutions per one wheel revolution first gear is approximately this. Finally, to convert wheel revs per hour to miles per hour, you will need to take the revs per mile spec of your size and model tire and divide the number you have obtained thus far by it.
For example, you can look up this spec on tirerack. Simple and accurate. Tire specs can be found at Tirerack. Below are listed the ratios for the three major manual gearboxes. The column marked "overall" is the basic gear ratio multiplied by the final drive gear ratio. The final drive ratio and individual gear ratios are included for completeness; virtually anything useful that one might want to do can be determined with the "overall" number.
For the FWD TT cars who actually have the possibility of running out of gear, the car would have an effective top-speed of mph with the stock tire size at the stock indicated redline. For example, with the stock cams, the stock 5th ratio might give the best acceleration from mph to mph, with a severe drop-off after mph. The taller gears would move the optimum "window" further up say mph, or mph, or mph for the taller TRE gears respectively. Once the final drive gearing is taken into account you will never see less than about which is extremely tall already.
Can you imagine the engine turning the wheels one or more full revolutions for every engine revolution? As you can see, the gear would be unusable; the engine would have no leverage over the wheels whatsoever.
F5M33 W5MG1 W6MG1 5 and 6 Speed Mitsubishi Manual Transmission
Categories : Information Transmission. Navigation menu Personal tools Log in. Namespaces Page Discussion. Views Read Edit History. Categories How To's Information Dictionary. Contribute Create an Article Upload a File. This page was last edited on July 2,at Remember Me? Probably some others but those are the ones that left an impression. Thanks to them I was much more comfortable cutting into my own car. I like pictures so there are a lot of them, some may be redundant but whatever. I tried taking as many as I could.
I even left the phone on the workbench while I was working on the car. On to the Pics! What a long weekend! From our own TurboSinceBirth, Thanks man!
I usually have about twelve irons in the fire and can never seem to keep it clean. I work for Chrysler and they wanted that exact color combo in the commercial so they shipped it over there, put different wheels on it, filmed and shipped it back. Stock subframe pulled from the car. Taking some preliminary measurements, Taking pictures of them comes in handy when I forget where I wrote them down. There are more detailed pictures later when cutting into my car, this is pretty much after all the parts have been cut out of the donor.
Yes, I did feel bad cutting into the rare silver car, but mine was much cleaner to begin with. It was a combination of a cut off wheel and a sawzall that did most of the work. It comes with the kit from 3sx. Wheel wells as removed. Side by side Forward AWD rear subframe mounts.
These are a pain to get off. The outside edges of the parts in the next two pictures would roll up and get pinched between two parts of the unibody. I had to cut it off with the cut off wheel. Later I was able to just seam weld it.Automotive Forums.
Auto and manual. TT ones come only with manual transmission. And as for wanting to drift this may be an opinion but drifting is not only a waste of tires, but a waste of life. Its not even a sport. Sure I want a high horsepower RWD that could kick the ass end out at any time I romp the throttle, but to go out and try to "impress" judges with putting a car on the edge of losing control is stupid.
Drifting is a fad and it will die off in a very short time. There is my :2cents:. Bret Brinkman on 3si modified the planetary gears to where the tranny only sent power thru the t case to the rear wheels.
Its not really a good way to go about it though because the t case is a weak link in the drivetrain. It also seems to absorb some of the extra power you should gain from going to powering only 2 wheels instead of 4.
There are a few vids of his car floating around. He was at a Nopi event and entered the burn out contest. The problem is you have young dumb kids who think they are gods and go out and hurt themselves or some innocent person.
There arent many D1 events even held in the states so there is no "safe" places to be drifting. The only reason it even became popular in teh states is because its the latest "yo JDM tyte" thing and ricers will follow anything. You can take the 4Ws off but from what I have heard its not worth the hassle. And it wouldnt screw up a drift anymore considering it only turns 1. Okay, just to dispell the rumor that it can't be done, heres an article from last years 3S magazine.
Nearly stock. I think we have some explaining to do! The solution was pretty simple. Weld up the planet gears in the planetary assembly. Next he removed the ring gear on the front differential. That way the pinion gear is the only part of the front diff getting torque. Since the pinion gear with no load on it requires virtually no torque, all the torque goes to the rear wheels.1995 3000GT FWD non turbo base, converted to AWD Twin Turbo by Shooter83.
So, what are the results? Bret can start out at part throttle in first at RPM, floor it, and by RPM's the rear end breaks loose, the rear right tire lifts up out a little as the chassis flexes, and the wheels spin all the way to redline. So, what about those quarter-mile times?You can use either Gen1 or Gen2 AWD parts, but you will need to get rotors and calipers from same generation as the Gen1 calipers will not fit the larger Gen2 Rotors.
The FWD rotors are about The knuckles are the same for all years on the AWD, as are the front hubs, so they can come from any year and work the same. The generational difference is in the calipers, the Gen2 calipers have longer "arms" connecting to the knuckles, thus use the same pads for all years. You don't need the AWD shafts.
The only thing really needed is rear calipers and pads. That being said, it's only really even worth doing the swap if you have Gen2 rear calipers as they are a 2-piston caliper while the Gen1 rear calipers are a single-piston setup just like the FWD rear brakes. The TT pads will hang off the edge of the NA rotor a little, that's ok and has not proven to be an issue.
You will probably have to do a little grinding on the caliper see pics below to get clearance on the rotors. It's close and it seems that some cars don't need it while others do. This rotor offers a larger diameter at mm with a nearly identical center-hat offset. Using the larger rotor means getting more use of the pad - there is still a LITTLE underlap of the rotor against the pad, but there is definitely MORE pad on the rotor surface, meaning more braking power in the rear.
Again, this is if you are using the 2nd gen TT rear 2-piston calipers. When you make the conversion to Gen2 VR4 brakes, you put yourself into the category of needing wheels that fit VR4 cars. Purchase the FWD brake lines. But on the flip side of that, what you lose in straight line acceleration, you more than gain in braking ability for autocross and road course racing.
A mix of new and used parts were used. New parts: rotors, pads, lines, front line connectors, tie rod ends, hub bearings, ABS rings. Used parts: knuckles, calipers, ABS sensors.
Second Gen TT front rotors are about 1.References to part suppliers, TC recall info, and rebuild instructions will be listed through out the topic and at the end. If you do not know how a transmission works, then I highly recommend you learn.
It deals with our drivetrains specifically. If you know of any other sites to help people understand the basics of transmissions or find errors in this topic please let me know and I will fix it. The transfer case TC for short has a cast aluminum front housing. The TC for this drive train also has a cast aluminum front housing but the 25 spline output shaft is larger in diameter. These drive trains had a 6 speed with the same 25 spline output shaft used in the 5 speed, however their TCs had a cast iron front housing.
It should be noted that even given these production date cut offs you may still have a transaxle that is not supposed to be in your car. This may be due to any number of reasons none of which make a difference to you now.
Obviously you can easily tell if you have a 6-speed or not. If you have a 5-speed then you need to figure out which output shaft you have. The only way to do this is by removing your TC and counting the number of splines on the output shaft. It will be either 18 or Don't think you know what you have, check it for your self. While the 5 speed drivetrains are the same around the world, the J-spec 6 speeds differ from the US and Euro spec 6 speeds in that the J-specs have a numerically higher shorter final drive ratio.
If you would like to convert to J-spec gears these gears only work with 6 speedsthen you will need the front diff ring and pinion gears inside the J-spec 6 speed tranny as well as the rear diff ring and pinion gears from any 5 speed rear end. The J-spec front ring and pinion gears are unique to the J-spec VR-4s while the rear ring and pinion gears are the same as the 5 speeds.
Most members just swap out the whole 6 speed rear end for that of a 5 speed. The front diff ring and pinion gears from a J-spec tranny can be purchased from Kormex. The tooth count on the J-spec ring gear is 51 teeth and the pinion gear has 15 teeth.
The first weak link that has been found is in the 18 spline drive train. It is the 18 spline output shaft. People have been able to snap this shaft in two with just a few basic mods like MBC, gutted cats, and intake. Over time and repeated launches it will break. Either way you will need a new output shaft.
The second weakest link is for 5-speeds in general, the cast aluminum TC front housing. They will tend to break along the backside into two halves.
Tech - The NA Brake Upgrade / AWD Brakes on your FWD 3S
The crack will originate at the bottom section near the Getrag cover.Posted by Project2GOct 29, Featured Products from our Supporting Vendors. Activity Feed DSMtuners. Join the Community! Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. Oct 29, 1. By Jacob Isaac-Lowry Before we begin, there are several things to be noted about this drivetrain swap.
It is not technically very difficult, but requires a lot of labor There is cutting and welding that must be done to the vehicle There is some wiring that will need to be fabricated If you are not completely comfortable doing all of the above, you should not attempt this swap as some processes will be difficult to reverse.
That aside, if you are confident in your ability to perform this modification, lets move on to what AWD parts you need. Fortunately it's simple, the entire rear FWD suspension assembly must be taken out of the car. To save time, I took everything out as one whole piece. The e-brake cables have to be disconnected from the parking brake handle inside the car.
You'll have to pull up the carpet to remove a couple bolts that hold the cables to the car, both inside and underneath. With those bolts out, you can pry the cables out of the car.
This is a real pain so take your time. Once the cables are disconnected, unbolt the upper control arms and trailing arms from the frame. You need to pull the rubber plug out of the body to remove the large bolt holding the trailing arm. Next, disconnect the brakes lines. Now support the rear assembly with jacks and remove the four bolts holding the subframe to the car.
At this point, just lower and remove the subframe. The next task is to remove the FWD gas tank. From inside the car, unplug the fuel pump connector and fuel level sender connector along with all of the fuel lines. Underneath the car, the filler and vent hose must be disconnected. There are several bolts holding in the tank, remove them and lower the tank. Be careful here, if there is gas still in the tank you may end up with it in your face.
Installation of AWD Gas Tank With the rear subframe and gas tank gone, the back end of your car should be looking pretty empty. Time to fill all that space with the new AWD components. We'll get started with the AWD gas tank. To accommodate for this, the factory FWD tank mounts must be cut out. With the stock mounts removed, new bolts must be placed to support the AWD tank. The holes are already in the sheet metal, bolts just need to be placed in there. See Figure I used a holesaw and cut holes from the inside of the car See Figure from there I could drop bolts down.
I placed a nut on the end of each bolt and tightened them down. See Figure This way if I ever have to remove the gas tank, I won't have to pull the carpet up on the inside to put a socket on the bolts. Simple enough.Everything has been done professionally and correctly. I am a certified mechanic and I have been in business for myself for nearly a decade.
The thing that separates me from everyone else is the professionalism that goes into the cars I do. I do not take short cuts and I make sure everything is done right. That means wire looms instead of zip ties. That means running wires and hoses in the same location instead of having a millions of hoses run all over the place. That means doing things in the right order, correct torque specs and manufactures way unless noted there is a weak or problematic issue-then it's resolved with the correct updates or mods.
So this car is done the right way. Test drives are available but will be done by me as no one is on my insurance to be allowed to drive it. Too many people with no intentions of buying or don't have the money for the car want a free ride in a fast car. If you have zero feedback you are NOT allowed to bid. If you have less then 5 feedbacks you just contact me and ask me if you can bid.
I can ship the vehicle out but you pay the shippers not me. Wiseco 92mm forged pistons 5. King bearings 6.
Fidanza replaceable aluminum flywheel 7. Competition Clutch friction ft. Fidanza pressure plate ft. PST 6-speed 1-piece carbon fiber driveshaft race version HD front axle assemblies Ported lower intake manifold full job by me Aeromotive AFPR StalleyFMIC biggest one Aluminum hard pipes New Karman MAF New wheel tensioners New water pump Magnacor 8.
NGK double platinum plugs colder Walbro lph fuel pump Snow Performance methanol injection system Custom made stainless steel mandrel bent 3" dual exhaust system Stainless steel cat-delete 3" Stainless steel intermediate dual exhaust pipe 4" Apexi 5" stainless steel rear exhaust tuned tips